Before I only used monitor, simple DP/HDMI input is all I wanted. But being able to take full control of the tv and connect it with other devices in the house I would normally get Rpi for is pretty convenient!

https://www.sceptre.com

Westinghouse TVs are made by a company licensing the brand, not a "Pittsburgh-headquartered company".

These seem like easy mistakes to avoid.

Every Android-based media player I've had tried just plain sucks, the NVIDIA Shield wasn't too bad but at some point the controller quit charging. You can still get a game console with a built-in Blu-Ray player too and it's nice to have one box that does that as well as being an overpowered for streaming.

I have a HDHomeRun hooked up to a small antenna pointed at Syracuse which does pretty well except for ABC, sometimes I think about going up on the roof and pointing the small one at Binghamton and pointing a large one at Syracuse but I am not watching as much OTA as I used to. It's nice though being able to watch OTA TV on either TV, any computer, tablets, phones, as well as the Plex Pass paying for the metadata for a really good DVR side-by-side with all my other media.

As for TVs I go to the local reuse center and get what catches my eye, my "monitor" I am using right now is a curved Samsung 55 inch, I just brought home a plasma that was $45 because I always wanted a plasma. I went through a long phase where people just kept dropping off cheap TVs at my home, some of which I really appreciated (a Vizio that was beautifully value engineered) and some of which sucked. [1]

[1] ... like back in the 1980s everybody was afraid someone would break into your home and take your TV but for me it is the other way around

> If you want premium image quality or sound, you’re better off using a smart TV offline.

In the future, if they add e-sims, we'll just remove them or de-solder or whatever.

The real risk is cars: if they start not working without cell network connections.

Buy a cheap smart TV and run it in "store mode".

Brightness and saturation will probably be maxed out but with a cheap TV, it looks more like "normal" on a more expensive model. Hint: The main difference between cheap and expensive in some cases --- the color adjustment range is limited by software on the cheaper models.

Currently using a Hisense 4k model from Costco connected to a small mini PC --- Windows or Linux, your preference. The TV functions as nothing but a dumb display.

Use a small "air mouse" for control. On screen keyboard as needed.

Use a Hauppauge USB tuner for local digital broadcasts.

I use software called DVB Viewer to view local channels and IPTV. A browser with VPN for streaming in some cases.

In every case, I maintain full control of my data and the ability to block ads as I see fit.

https://plasma-bigscreen.org/get/

> A spokesperson from Panasonic Connect North America told me that digital signage displays are made to be on for 16 to 24 hours per day and with high brightness levels to accommodate “retail and public environments.”

Some TV's err on the side of being too dim for daytime viewing in a bright room; that could only be a plus.

If it's too bright in a way that can't be turned down, you could always DIY a tinted shield to put over it for evening viewing. We used to use things like that over CRT monitors once upon a time.

> Their rugged construction and heat management systems make them ideal for demanding commercial use, but these same features can result in higher energy consumption, louder operation, and limited compatibility with home entertainment systems.

I've never heard a commercial flat screen display make a sound.

> Panasonic’s representative also pointed out that real TVs offer consumer-friendly features for watching TV, like “home-optimized picture tuning, simplified audio integration, and user-friendly menu interfaces.”

That person doesn't understand how this would be used at all. The user hooking up their streaming box to the display panel only needs the panel to do video (e.g. via HDMI cable). The display is not involved in audio at all.

I use a 1/8" plug stereo cable going straight from the Android box to a pair of RCA jacks in the speaker system. Bluetooth could be used but the wire has lower latency, 100% reliability, and not using BT means that the speakers are available for pairing if someone wants to use them from a phone. They have a remote control that can switch between two copper line inputs, and BT. The TV's volume is kept at 1%; it would make no difference if it had no speakers.

https://sfconservancy.org/copyleft-compliance/vizio.html

If I need to update an app, I temporarily allow Google services access. All the streaming apps work well, except for HBO Max which takes a few minutes to load. I suspect it has a long timeout/retry count for something I'm blocking. But once it loads, it's fine.

I also use a different and basic home launcher so we can open the apps we want immediately, without having to deal with shifting algorithm-based icons. But even if we use the Google launcher, it's mostly empty and free of ads because it can't connect. It does still capture what I recently watch though.

Overall it's a decent experience, mainly because we're not being bombarded by more ad algorithms.

2. setup a one time use wifi network with randomized SSID and password (hotspot from your phone works well)

3. connect your tv to it and update to latest software

4. delete the wifi config and reset that network (roll to new SSID and password)

5. connect an apple tv set top box and never use any of the tv features ever again

It has low latency, will do 1080p 240Hz, 4k (pixel shift) 60Hz and HDR. Can even do 3D content if you really want...

BenQ did include an Android TV stick in the box, but you can just not hook it up to the projector - problem solved.

I had an Apple TV as well, but I don't use it anymore. And I otherwise only use Apple devices. But the Apple TV I just never got warm with.

Either I can do the stupid thing and connect my LG TV to the network, or through various means download the UHD content, and therefore have to manage it, especially the last watched position, or forego it.

Having ADHD, I never really watch to the end, and so rely so much on the saved position to resume.

I hope it is not yet important for me as I never allowed a TV access to my LAN/WLAN. But with smart devices using accessible open WLANs to transmit who knows.

[1] https://arxiv.org/abs/2409.06203 / https://arxiv.org/pdf/2409.06203

The only change I had to make starting from a "standard" Linux UI is bumping the screen zoom level to 150%. This may vary depending on your TV size and how far your couch is from your TV.

Building the HTPC was very cheap, I just boughs a horizontal form-factor case, and used spare "donor" parts coming from our household PCs after upgrades.

[1][2]For comparison, the only streaming platform that had all apps I wanted was Apple TV, but that one doesn't have a browser.

Unlike phones,

- if it should be air gapped then all you’d want is your HDMIs input and remote control to work.

- nice to have: ADCs/DACs for analog AV input and audio out and any antenna input if available.

- super nice to have: Bluetooth for passing audio out and maybe network (Ethernet, WiFi) stack if same.

But assuming the goal is airgapped. There are less security concerns in general, You just want the Android TV to be lightweight and fast and don’t care it’s “stuck” in specific version or use closed blobs.

Then why mention the pitiful shit? That describes a LCD TV I had in 2004, one of the first.

> but some of them also have a built-in DVD player.

Well, that changes everything; I want one now, LOL ...

For budget-conscious setup: even older plasma/LCD displays that predate the "smart" era are increasingly available secondhand. Pair with a Raspberry Pi or similar and you get a system you actually own.

My concern is the framerate. Some of these TVs, even in the 1080p era, will turn a cinematic masterpiece into feeling like a cheap soap opera. I’m not even sure what to look for to avoid this issue. Limiting myself to maybe 48hz tvs?

I did not give my TV network access. Works fine.

This plus all the notes below about how various apps won't stream 4k in various circumstances depending on platform or web browser just lend further credence to the idea that it's best to say fuck it and deploy a jellyfin instance and sail the high seas. Or at least rip blu rays.

I mean why would I pay all these streaming services for such subpar service?

That can be as simple as an Apple / Android TV, or more.